While many fresh vegetables begin to disappear at this time of year, cabbage (of every type) is always available. Three of the recipes this week utilize fresh cabbage and one calls for sauerkraut. The cabbage soup is from Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle and Simone Beck (Alfred A. Knopf 1967). This cookbook has become a classic over the years (the binding on our copy is now held together with tape). The braised cabbage is an unusual side dish that goes well with most types of meat, or, if you prefer, try the wilted cabbage salad.

We haven't included a recipe for making sauerkraut (although it does not appear to be particularly difficult). Instead, we use the bagged sauerkraut which can be found in the refrigerated section of the store (Boar's Head is quite good). Sauerkraut is used this week as the base for the choucroute - a unique but wonderful dish we hope you will try.

 

CHOUCROUTE GARNIE

Choucroute, from Alsace (the narrow region of France between the Rhine river and the Vosges mountains which stretches from the Swiss border in the south to the the German border on the north) is a dish that is usually served in the autumn. Choucroute differs from traditional forms of pickled cabbage (sauerkraut) in two important ways; it is cooked in wine and it generally contains a rich blend of meats (although we have also eaten choucroute aux poissons which uses a firm fish filet in place of the meat). We first encountered choucroute in a restaurant a number of years ago, but it took many months and ideas from a number of cookbooks to create something similar to the taste we remembered. A side dish of potatoes is used to complete this hearty meal.

Ingredients:

2 lbs sauerkraut (thoroughly rinsed and drained)
3 TBS butter
l large onion, diced
3 carrots, sliced medium thickness
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 lb smoked sausage, cut into 1" chunks (we use Portuguese, mild or spicy)
4-5 pork chops (a combination of smoked and plain)
Pepper, freshly ground, to taste
6 juniper berries
1 cup heavy cream (heated) (more if required)
8 TBS Parmesan cheese, grated
6 medium potatoes, peeled and quartered

Saute onion in butter over low heat until soft. Add carrot and saute another 5 minutes. Add drained sauerkraut and white wine. Cook over medium heat until moisture has evaporated. Add juniper berries and pepper, set aside.

Saute pork chops and sausage until lightly browned.

In a dutch oven, spread one third of the sauerkraut mixture in bottom of pan, add half of meat, one third of sauerkraut, remainder of meat and top with sauerkraut. Pack firmly and pour hot cream over the mixture. Heat on top of stove to a simmer, cover tightly and place in 350° oven. Bake for 1-1/2 hours, checking to see if additional liquid is required. At the end of cooking time, remove cover and sprinkle with Parmesan. Bake another 20-30 minutes or until browned. While the choucroute is in the final cooking phase, boil the potatoes until tender and serve separately. Remove juniper berries. 6 servings.

 CABBAGE SOUP

Ingredients:

3 1/2 quarts water
3-4 cups potatoes, peeled and quartered
1 1/2 lb piece of smoked, unprocessed ham
2 lbs cabbage, cored and roughly sliced
8 peppercorns, crushed
6 sprigs parsley tied with 1 bay leaf
1/2 tsp marjoram
1/2 tsp thyme
4 cloves garlic, mashed or pressed
2 medium onions, studded with 2 cloves
2 carrots, peeled and sliced
2 stalks celery, sliced
2 cups navy beans, cooked

Place water, potatoes and meat in large soup pot and bring to boil. Add the cabbage and remaining ingredients (with the exception of the navy beans) and simmer, partially covered for 1 1/2 to 2 hours or until meat is tender. Discard parsley. Remove meat from the pan, slice it into serving pieces and return to the pot. Add navy beans and continue simmering 10-15 minutes. Skim off accumulated fat and adjust seasoning. Serve with toasted French bread slices. 8 servings.

 

BRAISED CABBAGE

This recipe works best with young (small) heads of cabbage.

Ingredients:

2 small heads cabbage
Bacon, 4 strips
1/2 cup butter
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Completely remove dark green leaves from cabbage. Bring water to boil in large pot. Add whole cabbages and blanch 2-3 minutes. Drain well. Discard the core from each head and shred cabbage into 1/4" slivers.

Place bacon in large skillet over medium-low heat and cook until golden. Remove bacon and all but 1 TBS bacon fat from skillet and add butter. When butter is melted, add sliced cabbage, salt and pepper. Cook until the cabbage is very tender and completely coated with butter. Garnish with crumbled bacon. 6 servings.

 

WILTED CABBAGE SALAD

Ingredients:

1 medium head of cabbage
Bacon, 5 strips
3 TBS red wine vinegar
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Peel outer leaves from cabbage. Wash, quarter and core cabbage. Shred cabbage and place in a large bowl. Cover with boiling water and let stand for ten minutes. Drain and pat dry on paper towels. In skillet, cook bacon until golden and crisp. Remove bacon and reserve 2 TBS bacon grease. Add vinegar, salt and pepper to reserved bacon grease. Mix thoroughly and toss with cabbage. Crumble bacon over the cabbage. 6 servings.



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