At the risk of becoming embroiled in a "holy war", we have decided to present two gumbo recipes for addition to everyone's list of personal favorites. The definition of perfect gumbo is as varied as the number of people you choose to ask. Everything from the ingredients to the thickening agent (okra or file powder) is up for discussion. We have enjoyed gumbo both at home and in numerous restaurants, and as long as the ingredients are fresh and the roux is made with the right amount of care, most of them have been excellent. The first recipe is taken from a 1971 Time-Life Series on Foods of the World (American Cooking: Creole and Acadian). The second is from the renowned Paul Prudhomme's 1984 book, Chef Paul Prudhomme's Louisiana Kitchen.
Ingredients:
Shell and devein the shrimp, wash them and refrigerate until ready to use. In a 12-quart pot, bring the water, chilies, lemon slices, bay leaves, thyme and salt to a boil. Drop in the fresh crabs and boil briskly, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Remove the crabs from the pot and set aside to cool. Drop the shrimp into the stock remaining in the pot and cook 3-5 minutes, or until firm to the touch. Remove the shrimp to a plate and cool. Boil the stock, uncovered, until it is reduced to 3 quarts. Strain the stock through a sieve and discard the seasonings. Cover the pot to keep the stock warm.
When the crabs are cool enough to handle, shell and reserve the meat, leaving the large claws intact. In a 6-quart pot, warm the roux over low heat, stirring constantly. Add the onions and garlic and stir for 5 minutes. Add the okra and green peppers and mix well. Stirring constantly, pour in the reserved warm stock in a slow, thin stream and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the cayenne pepper, Tabasco and season to taste with salt and pepper; simmer for 30 minutes. Stir in the crabmeat and claws and simmer, over low heat, for an additional 30 minutes. Add the shrimp and simmer 5 minutes longer, then taste for seasoning. Serve at once with rice. 4 servings.
Ingredients:
Combine the flour and oil in a heavy skillet (preferably cast iron or enameled iron) and, with a large metal spatula, stir them to a smooth paste. Place the skillet over the lowest possible heat and, stirring constantly, simmer the roux slowly for 45 minutes to an hour.
After 5 minutes or so, the mixture will begin to foam and this foaming may continue for as long as 10 minutes. After about half an hour, the roux will begin to darken and have a faintly nutty aroma. Continue to cook slowly, stirring with the spatula, until the roux is a dark rich brown. During the last 5 minutes or so of cooking, the roux darkens quickly and you may want to lift the pan from the heat periodically to let it cool. When cooked, immediately scrape the roux into a small bowl. Let the roux cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate until ready to use. The roux will keep, refrigerated, for several weeks. Makes approximately 10 TBS.
Chef Prudhomme's approach to making a roux is quite different from most recipes. It does work if you are very careful not to burn the mixture.
Ingredients:
Remove excess fat from chicken pieces. Rub a generous amount of salt and cayenne on both sides of the pieces, making sure each is evenly covered. Let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. Combine the flour, 1/2 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp cayenne in a paper or plastic bag. Add the chicken pieces and shake to coat. Reserve 1/2 cup of the flour. In a large skillet, heat 1 1/2 inches of oil until very hot (375-400 degrees). Fry the chicken pieces until the crust is brown on both sides and the meat is cooked (8-10 minutes per side). Drain the chicken on paper towels and carefully pour the hot oil into a glass measuring cup, leaving the browned particles in the pan. Scrape the pan bottom to loosen any stuck particles and return 1/2 cup oil to the pan.
Place the pan over high heat. Using a long-handled metal whisk, gradually stir in the reserved 1/2 cup flour. Cook, whisking constantly, until the roux is dark red-brown (about 3 1/2-4 minutes). Be careful not to let it scorch or splash on your skin. Remove from heat and immediately add the chopped vegetables, stirring constantly until the roux stops browning. Return the pan to low heat and cook until vegetables are soft, stirring constantly.
Meanwhile, place the chicken broth in a 6 quart pot and bring to a boil. Add the roux mixture by spoonfuls, stirring until dissolved between each addition. Reduce heat to a simmer and add the sausage and garlic. Simmer uncovered for 45 minutes. While the gumbo is simmering, bone the cooked chicken and cut into 1/2 inch dice. When the gumbo is cooked, stir in the chicken and adjust seasoning. Serve immediately with rice. 6 servings.
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