Fresh horseradish is an interesting plant and has become readily available in most of the local stores. In use since 1500 B.C., this spicy root can provide intensive flavor in a variety of dishes. Although most commonly seen in its prepared form, we are finding more and more recipes which use the fresh root. When buying horseradish, look for roots that are hard, dry and free from knots and dents. Store in a cool dry place or wrapped in plastic in the refrigerator. To prepare the root for cooking, the thin outer skin is peeled away and then the root can be sliced, chopped or grated. Watch out when you begin to grate horseradish; when its oils are released, it can definitely cause tears.
We tried to grate horseradish with a traditional hand grater and had about the same success we would expect in grating cardboard. We then cut the peeled root into small chunks and placed them in a mini-processor with a steel blade. The processor produced the desired result quickly with only one minor problem. Horseradish is so strong that it permanently etched the plastic bowl of the processor, leaving it with a slightly cloudy appearance.
The first recipe is from Cooking with Master Chefs by Julia Child (Alfred A. Knopf, 1993) and was prepared by Patrick Clark. It is not only delicious, but Chef Clark's presentation of the dish is beautiful. The second recipe for potatoes, horseradish and caramelized onions (March 1993 Bon Appetit) has become one of our favorites.
Chive oil:
Fish:
Leeks garnish:
Potatoes:
Puree the chives and oil in a blender until smooth. Refrigerate in a squeeze bottle(can be made ahead and will keep for up to two weeks).
Peel the horseradish and coarsely grate. Turn 3/4 cup of grated horseradish into a flat dish and combine with the bread crumbs and herbs. In a second dish, whisk together the milk and eggs. Spread the flour, seasoned with salt and pepper, on waxed paper.
Only the top side of the fish is coated, not the skin side. Coat the top side of each fillet with the seasoned flour, shaking off the excess. Coat the same side with the egg and milk mixture and finally place it into the crumb mixture, pressing firmly to make sure the mixture adheres. Place fillets on a tray, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until cooking time.
Leek garnish: Cut the root end off the leeks and cut the white part into 3 1/2 inch lengths. Halve lengthwise and cut into fine julienne. Drop into cold water, leave a moment and lift out with your hands. Gently squeeze out excess water. In a skillet, heat two inches of peanut oil to 325°. Drop in the leeks, a handful at a time, and let them cook slowly until the bubbling stops (about 5 minutes). Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. The leeks do not brown but remain light and crisp.
Mashed potatoes: Preheat the oven to 300°. Bring four quarts of water to boil in a large pot and add a tablespoon of Kosher salt. Add the potatoes and boil slowly until just tender. Drain thoroughly, transfer the potatoes to a baking pan and place, uncovered, in the oven to dry out (3-5 minutes). Puree the potatoes, season with salt and pepper and beat in the butter and milk to desired consistency. Keep warm.
Cooking the fish: Heat 1/2 inch of vegetable oil to medium high in a large skillet. Place the fish fillets crust side down in the hot oil and cook until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Turn and cook 3-5 minutes on the second side.
Presentation: Spoon a serving of mashed potatoes into the center of a plate. Place a fish fillet, crust side up on top. Drizzle chive oil around the potatoes and garnish with the crispy leeks. 6 servings.
Ingredients:
Melt butter in large skillet over medium heat. Add onions and saute until golden, about 40 minutes. Add stock and sugar and simmer until almost all liquid is absorbed, about 10 minutes. Preheat oven to 375°. Place sliced potatoes in a greased 13 x 9 x 2 inch baking dish. Top with horseradish. Sprinkle with nutmeg, salt and pepper. Pour cream over. Cover with foil and bake until potatoes are tender, about 45 minutes. Uncover and continue baking until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Serve topped with caramelized onions. 6 servings.
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