When thinking about classic meals, we often turn to cookbooks from the legendary Julia Child. We suspect that she must be enjoying the much touted return of families enjoying meals together in the home - she has definitely been instrumental in many meals at our house. Even though some people choose to implement this return to family dining by picking up prepared meals from various stores and restaurants, many of us prefer to tackle new ideas and concepts in our own kitchens. Our culinary history ranges a first attempt at scrambled eggs (thank you Joy of Cooking) to crepes, tarts and souffles (compliments of Ms. Child). We have learned many of the classic cooking techniques by reading a number of the cookbooks produced by Julia Child in conjunction with other chefs, as well as watching her shows that frequently appear on public television. We particularly enjoyed a recent show in which Ms. Child was joined by Jacques Pepin, an excellent chef and teacher in his own right. The two of them together are both entertaining and informative. If you see a listing for another of their shows, don't miss it.
One of the traditional hallmarks of excellent food is the presentation of a perfectly roasted chicken. The simple but delicious meal in this column is from Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Child, et. al. (Alfred Knopf 1967). If the recipe is followed exactly, the chicken will, indeed, be perfect.
Estimated roasting time for a 5 lb chicken is 2 hours.
Ingredients:
Preheat oven to 425°. Sprinkle the chicken (inside and out) with salt. Rub skin of chicken with 2 TBS butter. In a small bowl, combine 2 TBS butter with the olive oil.
Place the chicken, breast up, on an adjustable wire rack inside a large shallow roasting pan. Strew the vegetables directly into the roasting pan and place the pan in the middle of the preheated oven. Allow the chicken to brown lightly for 15 minutes, turning it on the left side after 5 minutes, on the right side for the last five minutes, basting with the combined butter and oil after each turn. Reduce the heat to 350°. Leave the chicken on its side and baste every 10 minutes, using the fat in the roasting pan once all of the butter and oil have been used. Carefully watch the temperature and regulate the heat so the chicken is making "cooking noises", but the fat is not burning.
Halfway through the estimated cooking time, turn the chicken on its other side and continue basting every 10 minutes. Fifteen minutes before the end of the estimated roasting time, turn the chicken breast up and continue basting. Indications that the chicken is almost done are a sudden rain of splutters, a swelling of the breast, the drumstick is tender when pressed and can be moved in its socket. Another check is to prick the thickest part of the drumstick with a fork. The juices should run clear yellow. When done, set the chicken on a hot platter for at least ten minutes prior to carving.
Remove all but 4 TBS of fat from the pan (leaving the slightly charred vegetables in the pan as an addition to the sauce). Add the chicken broth and boil rapidly over high heat, constantly stirring. Reduce liquid to about one cup and remove from heat. Add the butter and season to taste. Place sauce in serving dish. Carve the chicken and put onto a serving platter. Pass the sauce separately at the table. 4 servings.
Ingredients:
Trim off the roots and remove any withered leaves. Carefully slit the leeks lengthwise on either side to within 1 1/2 inches of the base and gently fan out the leaves. Wash thoroughly under running water in order to remove all the grit and sand. Cut off a portion of the green tops to leave the leeks about 7 inches long. In a baking dish that can be placed on the stovetop, place the leeks in two or three layers. Pour in enough boiling water to come two thirds of the way up the layers. Add the butter and salt. Partially cover the dish, leaving a small space to allow steam to escape. Maintain the liquid at a fairly fast boil. As the leeks soften, the water will just cover them. In 30-40 minutes, the white part of the leeks will be tender when pierced with a knife. The liquid should almost be evaporated. Transfer the leeks to a baking dish and pour the remaining cooking juices over them.
Thirty minutes before serving, cover loosely with foil and set in the middle of a 325-350° oven for approximately 20 minutes. The leeks should be a light golden color. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.
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